裁剪前要先根据样板绘制出排料图,“完整、合理、节约”是排料的基本原则。在裁剪工序中主要工艺要求如下:
Before cutting, the layout of the material should be drawn according to the sample. "Complete, reasonable and economical" is the basic principle of discharge. In the cutting process, the main process requirements are as follows:
1、拖料时点清数量,注意避开疵点。
1, when the number of straight pull material, avoid the defects.
2、对于不同批染色或砂洗的面料要分批裁剪,防止同件服装上出现色差现象。对于一匹面料中存在色差现象的要进行色差排料。
2, for different batch or sand washing fabrics to be cut in batch to prevent the appearance of chromatic aberration on the same garment. Color difference is necessary for a fabric with chromatic aberration.
3、排料时注意面料的丝绺顺直以及衣片的丝缕方向是否符合工艺要求,对于起绒面料(例如丝绒、天鹅绒、灯芯绒等)不可倒顺排料,否则会影响服装颜色的深浅。
3, pay attention to the material discharging grain straight and pieces of silk thread direction meets the process requirements for fleece fabric (such as velvet, velvet, corduroy, etc.) can not reverse the discharge, otherwise it will affect the depth of color clothing.
4、对于条格纹的面料,拖料时要注意各层中条格对准并定位,以保证服装上条格的连贯和对称。
4. For the striped fabric, attention should be paid to the alignment and positioning of the lattices in each layer in order to ensure the continuity and symmetry of the stripes on the garment.
5、裁剪要求下刀准确,线条顺直流畅。铺型不得过厚,面料上下层不偏刀。
5, cutting requires the accuracy of the knife, line smooth and smooth. The shape must not be too thick, and the lower layer of the fabric is unbiased.
6、根据样板对位记号剪切刀口。
6, cut the knife edge according to the sample counter mark.
7、采用锥孔标记时应注意不要影响成衣的外观。裁剪后要进行清点数量和验片工作,并根据服装规格分堆捆扎,附上票签注明款号、部位、规格等。
7, the mark taper should pay attention not to affect the appearance of clothing. After cutting to count the number and inspection work, and according to the clothing specifications pack, attached to ticket number, location, and other specifications indicate.
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