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衣服面料的颜色看古代是如何做的?
来源:http://www.sdzzfs.com/ 日期:2018-03-14

服装就如同一种符号,古代社会中服装有严格的区分,不同的服饰代表着一个人属于不同的社会阶层,这就是“礼”的表现。《礼记》中对衣着等级作为了明文规定:“天子龙衮,诸候如黼,大夫黼,士玄衣裳,天子之冕,朱绿藻,十有二旒,诸候九,上大夫七、下大夫五,士三,以此人为责也。”《周礼》中记载:“享先王则衮冕,表明祭礼,大礼时,帝王百官皆穿礼服。”春秋战国时期的诸子百家对服装的“礼”性功能亦有精辟见解。如儒家提倡“宪章文武”约之以礼,这种观点的提出是其与其封建等级制度的捍卫者的形象密不可分的。
Clothing is like a symbol. In ancient society, clothing has strict distinction. Different costumes represent a person belonging to different social strata. This is the expression of "ritual". "The book of Rites" in the clothing grade as expressly stipulated: "the Emperor Dragon card such as Dagon, embroidery, the embroidery, Shi Xuan clothes, the crown of emperor Zhu Lvzao, ten, two card nine, seven pennant, doctor, doctor five, + three, who is also responsible for." "Zhou" records: "enjoy the first King Crown that ritual, Dagon, gift, Regal is wearing the dress." The spring and Autumn period of clothing "rite" of all classes of authors also provide insights into the function of. As the Confucian idea of "charter Wenwu" about etiquette, this view is put forward and the defenders of the feudal hierarchy of the image are inseparable.
这种“礼”的功能还表现在服装的色彩上,如孔子曾宣称“恶紫之夺朱也”(《论语阳货》)因为朱是正色,紫是间色,他要人为地给正色和间色定各位,别尊卑,以巩固等级制度,历史上“白衣”、“苞头”、“皂隶”、“绯紫”、“黄袍”、“乌纱帽”、“红顶子”等等都是在一定时期内,某种颜色附丽于某种服饰而获得了代表某种地位和身份的例子。在每个朝代几乎都有过对服饰颜色的相关规定。

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The function of "courtesy" is also reflected in the color of clothes, such as Confucius claimed "evil purple spoils Zhu also" ("Confucian Analects") because the ink is the color, color is purple, he will artificially and you don't set the color line, and, in order to consolidate the caste system, the history of "white clothing", "head bud", "zaoli", "Fei Zi", "yellow", "official", "red top" and so on are all in a certain period of time, a certain color belongs to some costumes and a representative kind of position and identity examples. In every dynasty, there are almost any rules about the color of the dress.
例如:《历代服饰》记载:秦汉巾帻色“庶民为黑、车夫为红,丧服为白,轿夫为黄,厨人为绿,官奴、农人为青“。唐以官服色视阶官之品。”“举子麻之通刺,称乡贡。”唐贞观四年和上元元年曾两次下诏颁布服饰颜色和佩带的规定。在清朝,官服除以蟒数区分官位以外,对于黄色亦有禁例。如皇太子用杏黄色,皇子用金黄色,而下属各王等官职不经赏赐是绝不能服黄的。
For example: "China ancient costumes" records: Qin towel Ze color "for the crime of the black, red, black white, the yellow, the kitchen human green, the official slave, the farmers for green". Tang in robes color order officer of the goods." "The thorns of lifting the son of the son, which is called the tribute of the township." In the first year of the four year and the lantern was two times under an edict promulgated the provisions of clothing colors and worn. In the Qing Dynasty, divided by the number of official robes Python distinguish except for yellow also prohibitions. For example, the emperor used the apricot yellow, the emperor used the golden yellow, and the subordinate kings and other official posts would not be able to accept the yellow.
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