首先说说好西装和差西装区别在哪里。
First of all, what is the difference between a good suit and a bad suit?.
好西装能让一个中年发福的糟老头子穿出霸道总裁的感觉;差西装能让一个玉树临风185的小伙穿出房屋中介的feel....
Good suit can make a middle-aged fat old man out of overbearing president feeling; poor suit can let a guy out of 185 tall,stately and handsome housing intermediary. Feel...
西装成衣都是标准码,除非你的身材非常标准,否则穿上去必然有不合身的地方,不去谈论面料,版型,工艺,如果是不合身,那就是差的。
Suits and ready-made clothes are standard codes, unless your body is very standard, otherwise wear must have a place that does not fit, do not talk about fabric, version, process, if it does not fit, that is poor.
而定制西装需要从布料选择到量身定制,再到打版裁剪制作,后上身进行后的修改。
And custom suits from cloth selection to tailor-made, and then to the plate cutting production, and finally make the last modification of the upper body.
像在美国华尔街,几乎所有从事投行人士都会选择去定制西装,即使是入门级别的菜鸟也需要,公司甚至会为他们提供置装费用。
Like in the Wall Street, almost all investment bankers will choose to tailor their suits, even if entry-level beginners are needed, and the company will even provide them with installation costs.
同样在国内从高管级别的人士开始都应该要尝试开始定制西装而不是去购买品牌,毕竟就高端人士来说,西装撞衫可是比女士撞衫还要来的尴尬。
Also in the domestic level from the beginning of executives who should try to start a tailored suit rather than buying top brands, after all, is the high-end, but also suit Zhuangshan than Zhuangshan to the embarrassment of ms..
那么对于初次尝试定制的新手来说,做好一件西服要注意哪些点呢?
So, for the first attempt to customize the novice, do a good suit to pay attention to what point?
1、选一个让你心情愉悦的定制店
1. Choose a custom shop that makes you feel good
首先,要选一个让你心情愉悦的私人定制店,至少在这里会令你有种宾至如归的感觉。很多高级的西装定制店环境优雅服务周到,不但能给你提供各种酒水点心,更重要的是有专人会结合你的身材特点和气质,根据工作或是活动的场合来给你各种的建议,让你看起来比原来更更有自信。
First, choose a private custom store that makes you feel good, at least here, to make you feel at home. Many senior suit custom shop environment elegant and thoughtful service, not only can provide you with a variety of drinks snacks, more important is to have someone with your temperament and body characteristics, according to the work or activities of the various occasions to give you professional advice, make you look more confident and more professional than the original.
2、一个经验老道的量体师傅
2, an experienced master of measurement
在定制行业有一句老话叫“三分量,七分做”,可见一个经验老道的量体师傅有多么重要。
In the custom industry, there is an old saying called "three components, seven points to do", which shows how important an experienced master of measurement is.
每个人因为先天身体条件和后期生活习惯不同导致身材差异很大,细节直接影响每件西装的版型。你去定做一件西服,花在量体上的时间还真的比你想像中要长
Each person has different body shapes due to different physical conditions and later life habits, and the details directly affect the version of each suit. You go to order a suit, and the amount of time spent on it is really longer than you think
真正有经验有本事的的量体师,摸摸你的骨头肌肉,结合你的职业特征,就知道再过几年你能吃胖几斤,身材是否会走形,做衣服的时候,要和裁剪打版的师傅如何沟通,知道你体型较瘦或者较胖,如何弥补缺陷,让做出来的衣服更饱满或者贴合身体曲线。
Really have the ability to experience the amount of body division, touch your head muscles, combined with the characteristics of your occupation, you know a few years you can eat several kilograms of fat, the body will take shape, when making clothes, how to play version and cutting of the master communication, know you lean or fat and how to make up for the defects, make the clothes more plump or fit the body curve.
3、了解自己的身材适合的版型
3, understand your body for the appropriate version
虽然西装的款式也受流行趋势的影响,但它大体上可以分为三种版型。不管当下流行的趋势如何,英国、美国、意大利这三个的西装风格,都会在西装的外观轮廓中有所体现。
Although the style of suit is influenced by the fashion trend, it can be roughly divided into three versions. No matter how popular the current trend is, the suit styles of the three countries, Britain, the United States and Italy, will be reflected in the outline of the suit.
它们个字显着的特点如下:英国西装的肩部呈凹型,意大利西装有着注重身体曲线的优雅轮廓,美国西装腰部呈简型。每个人的身材比例不同,着装风格各异,因此了解自己的身材,根据每个西装的不同特点,才能在定制自己西装的时候有所针对性。
Their most striking features are as follows: the shoulders of British suits are concave, and the Italy suits have an elegant outline of body curves. The waist of American suits is simple. Each person has a different body size and different styles of dress, so understanding their own body, according to the different characteristics of each country suit, in order to tailor their own suits when targeted.
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